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Backyard Leaf Composting

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This document provides guidance on backyard leaf composting, outlining the process of microbial decomposition of organic matter to create compost. It details how to construct and maintain a composting pile, including considerations for size, moisture, and aeration. The document also discusses the potential uses of leaf compost for improving soil organic content and as a soil conditioner.

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--- Document: Backyard Leaf Composting Document ---
Backyard Leaf Composting
Many New Jersey homeowners have an excessive
quantity of leaves in the fall.  One alternative for deal-ing
with leaves is backyard composting.  This process involves
primarily the microbial decomposition of organic matter.
Compost - the end result - is a dark, friable, partially
decomposed substance similar to natural organic matter
found in the soil.
The Composting Process
Composting speeds natural decomposition under semi-
controlled conditions. Raw organic materials can be con-
verted into compost by microorganisms.  As microorgan-
isms decompose organic matter, temperatures within the
pile increase, sometimes approaching l50 degrees F. at the
center.  These inside-pile temperatures speed the process,
and kill many weed and disease organisms.
Leaves may be composted by piling them in a heap.
Locate the pile where drainage is adequate and there is no
standing water.  The composting pile should be damp
enough that when a sample taken from the interior is
squeezed by hand a few drops of water will appear.  A
shaded area will reduce moisture evaporation from the
surface, but tree roots may grow into the pile.  If the surface
of the pile becomes excessively dry, it will not compost, and
those leaves may blow away.
The leaf pile should be at least 4 feet in diameter and
3 feet in height.  If it is too small, it is difficult to maintain
adequate temperatures for rapid decomposition.  The maxi-
mum size should be about 5 feet in height and l0 feet in
diameter.  If the pile is too large, the interior will not obtain
the oxygen needed for adequate, odor-free decomposition.
If more material is available, lengthen the pile into a rectan-
gular shape while keeping it l0 feet wide and 5 feet high.  If
there is sufficient space and material, two or three piles will
provide greater flexibility.  One pile can contain compost for
immediate use; the second is actively composting; and the
third receives newly fallen leaves.  If there is space for only
one pile, new material may be added gradually to the top
while removing the decomposed product from the bottom.
Containing the Pile
Composting may be done in a loose pile.  However, for
the most efficient use of space, it can be contained in a bin
or other enclosure.  The sides of this bin should be loose
enough to permit air movement.  One side should be open,
or easily opened, for turning the pile and for removing the
finished compost.
Woven wire or wooden slat fencing, or cement blocks
on their sides have been used successfully.  Wood gradu-
ally decomposes, and wire fencing may rust, so these
materials will need periodic replacement.  Wooden stakes
driven into the ground may attract termites, so lumber
treated with wood preservative or metal snow-fence posts
may be better.
Constructing the Pile
Many instruction sheets advocate constructing the
pile in layers that may include grass clippings, fertilizer,
limestone, manure, soil, and leaves.  However, we have
found this practice to be unnecessary.  The pile can be
constructed of leaves only.  A small amount of grass
clippings may be added to the leaves as the pile is being
constructed.  However, because of its high demand for
oxygen, too much grass tends to cause an anaerobic (with-
out oxygen) condition.  This greatly reduces the composting
rate, and can produce unpleasant odors.  Fresh vegetable
peelings may be included, but do not add meat or grease
because they may cause odors or attract pests.
Unless leaves are collected in a very wet condition, add
water while placing them in the pile.  Without moisture, the
microorganisms will not function. Moist-en to the point
For a comprehensive list of our publications visit www.rce.rutgers.edu
Fact sheet
FS074
Franklin Flower, Ph.D., Extension Specialist Emeritus in Environmental Science & Peter Strom, Ph.D., Assistant Professor in
Environmental Science


where it is possible to squeeze droplets of water from a hand-
held mass of leaves.
Dead leaves lack adequate nitrogen for rapid decompo-
sition.  Therefore, a high-nitrogen fertilizer added to the pile
may speed up decomposition.  However, since leaves fall
only for about 2 months a year, there are l0 months for
decomposition before space is needed for the next batch.
So, while it is generally unnecessary to add fertilizer, for
more rapid decomposition and a product with a higher
nutritive content, 5 ounces (about 1/2 cup) of 10% nitrogen
fertilizer per 20-gallon can of hand-compacted leaves could
be added. Fresh manure could be substituted, but it may
cause odor problems.
Ordinarily it is unnecessary to add ground limestone
because the pile seldom becomes too acidic.  If fertilizer has
been added, an equivalent quantity of limestone will coun-
teract any acidity.  Little or no limestone should be added
if the compost is to be used on acid-loving plants.
Some guides on leaf composting recommend adding
layers of soil periodically to the piles to supply the micro-
organisms needed for decomposition.  We have not found
this practice to be necessary, because leaves, themselves,
contain a multitude of microorganisms.  Available commer-
cial activators or starters definitely are not needed.
Avoid packing the materials too tightly.  Too much
compaction will limit movement of air through the pile.
Shredding the leaves generally speeds up composting.
To reduce weed germination, weeds in flower or with
seeds should not be composted.  Also, it is best to avoid
composting diseased plants, or herbicide-treated lawn clip-
pings until after at least three mowings.
Care of the Pile
The composting pile must be kept moist, but not soggy,
for proper decomposition.  Inadequate moisture reduces
microbial activity, while excessive water may cause anaerobic
conditions.  A thin outer layer of dry leaves is unavoidable.
The pile should be periodically turned or mixed.  The
main objectives of turning are to shift materials from the
outer parts of the pile closer to the center for better
decomposition, and to incorporate oxygen.  During
warm weather, turn the pile once a month.  In cool
weather frequent turning is not recommended because
it allows too much heat to escape.  Piles should be turned
immediately if ammonia or other offensive odors are
detected.  If space is available, turning may be accom-
plished by shifting the entire pile to an adjacent area or
bin.
Within a few weeks after starting, the pile should
be hot in the center.  Heating generally indicates that
the pile is decomposing properly.  Failure to heat may
be caused by too little or too much water, improper
aeration, packing too tightly, or a pile that is too small.
As leaves decompose, they should shrink to less than
one-half of their original volume.  During dry weather
it may be necessary to add more water.  The moisture
content of the interior of the pile should be observed
while turning.
Using Leaf Compost
Finished compost should be dark and crumbly with
much of the original appearance no longer visible.  It should
have an earthy odor.  Normally, compost will be ready in 4-
9 months.
The major horticultural use for leaf compost is to
improve the organic content of soil.  Most New Jersey soils
need an increase of 1/2 to 1% in organic content, particu-
larly to improve moisture-holding capacity and tilth.  Leaf
compost is not normally a fertilizer, because it is too low in
nutrients.  Compost serves primarily as an organic amend-
ment and as a soil conditioner.  Soil mulch is another
valuable use for leaf compost.
Based in part on Experiment Station Research Project
No. 07526.
© 2004 by Rutgers Cooperative Research & Extension, NJAES, Rutgers, The State University of New Jersey.
Desktop publishing by Rutgers-Cook College Resource Center
                                       Revised: December 1991
RUTGERS COOPERATIVE RESEARCH & EXTENSION
N.J. AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION
RUTGERS, THE STATE UNIVERSITY OF NEW JERSEY
NEW BRUNSWICK
Distributed in cooperation with U.S. Department of Agriculture in furtherance of the Acts of Congress on May 8 and June 30, 1914.  Rutgers Cooperative Extension works in
agriculture, family and community health sciences, and 4-H youth development.  Dr. Karyn Malinowski, Director of Extension. Rutgers Cooperative Research & Extension provides
information and educational services to all people without regard to race, color, national origin, gender, religion, age, disability, political beliefs, sexual orientation, or marital or family
status.  (Not all prohibited bases apply to all programs.)  Rutgers Cooperative Research & Extension is an Equal Opportunity Program Provider and Employer.